The local fish market just to the south of Hoi An promises a different experience from the vibrant, lit-up heritage centre. Even as the sun rises at 5.15 am, a time when no sane person should ever be awake and about, the fishermen are all wrapping up their work. It is easy to spot them, the only crowd hanging around on flimsy plastic chairs sipping on instant coffee and having a smoke after bringing in all the catch.
A small street by the pier, lined with small boats and even smaller basket rides, it is a 20-minute ride from Hoi An town. While tours are available at your usual platforms, a Grab ride was found within minutes, promptly bringing me to the destination. The address can be found below should you wish to make your own way down:
The Duy Hai market is not besotted with crowds of tourists, just the random stranger starkly out of place with a DSLR camera.
Beaches by fishing markets tend to be marred with heaps of trash, and while there is the odd pile here and there, the region is largely clean – a testament to the care the locals have for this spot.
As you wander around the river-side, you can feel the whiffs of cold air from crates of freshly caught seafood. A commercial ice shaver rests at one end of the road, taking a well-deserved break after going through blocks of ice, brought in by drivers balancing them one aside on bikes. There is a mild smell reminiscent of the ocean and fish, but not an unpleasant one.
As it nears 5.15 am, the sun rises. However, during May, the overcast skies meant that there was no clear sunrise to be seen. Instead, the sky gentles lighten up and the crowd lessens, heading off to start or end the day.
An interesting sight was the “basket boats” used to navigate to the boats parked away from the dock. A local guide mentioned that these basket boats were claimed as baskets and not “boats” at all, and thus should not be taxed.
No paddle is required for the veterans, who bob the boat up and down to steer it.
Vietnam’s vibrant coffee culture is reflected across every neighbourhood. Even small stands host a small grinder and espresso machine, serving coffee, often with a little sugar added.
Ultimately, this is not a destination for most tourists. There are no souvenirs to purchase except the fresh catch of the day. No restaurants serving up the local delicacies, just a local market where you can catch a glimpse away from the glitz of Hoi An old town. Head down the road and you will find road stalls are set up selling Banh Mi for under a dollar, laden with an assortment of vegetables, pate, and roast pork.