Similar to Singapore, Vietnam is known for its delicious array of street food. Fine-dining based off local cuisine thus becomes a challenge. How do you present these known flavours, offered for dollars in a restaurant in a course menu? I approached Vietnam 2021’s top restaurant, Anan to taste Chef Peter Franklin’s answer.
Anan’s offers two different tasting menus, the Saigon Tasting Menu (~USD55) and the more extensive Chef’s tasting Menu (~USD100, reservation required). With a tight budget, I went with the Saigon tasting menu, missing out on his signature one-bite pho and Caviar Bánh Nhúng.
To enter the restaurant, you ener the Old Market Ton That Dam, a wet market in the heart of district one. Snake your way across the parked bikes, boxes of soft drinks and you will enter into Anan.
A testament to its popularity, even after reserving a seat a week in advance, I was seated at the third-floor Nhau Nhau bar instead of the restaurant itself. There, I encountered Chef Peter himself in the midst of developing a new cocktail, one incorporating Vodka, Fish Sauce, and Black Pepper in a twist of the classic Martini.
As you seat, the menu comes packaged with a tale of the restaurant, its history and inspiration. A quick glance highlighted the idea of the name, where “ănăn” translates to that of “eat, eat”. The bar “Nhau Nhau” predictably means “drink, drink”. Straight to the point.
Amuse-bouche – Salmon Tartlet
Starting off the course is a flower-shaped tart shell filled with creme fraiche, salmon roe, and marinated salmon. Local dill tops this dish. I was informed that the courses follow the idea of “2 Fingers, 1 Bite”, where you are encouraged to pick up each dish with your hands and dive into it. This petit start was refreshing and bursting with umami.
Bánh Xèo Taco
Bánh Xèo, for the uninitiated is a pancake traditionally made with a combination of rice and wheat flour pan fried into a thin crispy layer before folded over a mixture of toppings. I was told that you will never order that for delivery as it needs to be eaten fresh, for “crispy is love”.
The love is certainly full tonight with the fried outer shell filled with a medley of vegetables, spices, and a plump shrimp. With juices overflowing, I’m glad this dish lasted more than one bite, with each consecutive bite bringing more enjoyment to my mouth.
Duck & Banana Blossom Salad
A slice of Mekong duck swapping for the usual chicken in the classic Vietnamese chicken salad. The banana blossom and cabbage salad is adorned with a slice of starfruit, a sour bite to the savoury dish. Paired with a ginger nước chấm sauce containing the quintessential Vietnamese condiment- the fish sauce. The fish sauce utilised here is less salty than its Thai counterpart and the perfect accompaniment for the salad.
Grilled Calamari
A grilled calamari paired with two different sauce – squid ink and fermented Tương Ớt Chilli (hot sauce). My favourite of the night as a fan of all things grilled as well as calamari, this met my expectation and then some. A charred exterior with a hint of bitterness over the sweet tender flesh with minimal chew required.
Instead of squatting by the road chewing on grilled calamari and snails is an enjoyable with a can of Saigon green is enjoyable, sipping on the paired Chardonnay with this version of the grilled calamari is certainly a different experience.
Chả Giò Spring Roll
One of the few deep fried dishes in Vietnamese street food cuisine from what I’ve noticed around Saigon. The spring roll is to be rolled up once more together with a a series of herbs in a Perilla Leaf, balancing out the rich crab and pork filling in a deep fried crust.
Wagyu Bò lá lốt
The main courses come in swinging with a Wagyu Beef Bò lá lốt, or beef wrapped in betel leaf.
Singaporeans who stayed awake in history class will be familiar with the leaf, where it is often chewed. Instead of beef, the betel nut or even tobacco will be wrapped around the leaf.
The thick wrap. Akin to the chubby fingers that act as a delivery mechanism bringing it in my awaiting jaws. Each bite bringing out more Wagyu juice together and the nước chấm sauce, this one seemingly a more savoury variant.
Angus Shaking Beef & Crab Fried Rice
The shaking beef, called such due to the shaking motion as the tenderloin is quickly seared on a wok is paired with bell peppers and watercress. Possibly better known as a stir-fry. Together with a fried rice topped with generous amounts of crab in its best form – deshelled.
A satisfying end to the main courses, I was filled to the brim with the arrival of this dish.
Crème Brûlée & Petit Four
A strawberry from the Đà Lạt in Vietnam’s central highlands, passionfruit, and dragonfruit form a bed upon which a caramel custard rests. Shattering the sugar crust allows it to meld into the egg custard below. A sweet ending to the night, together with the petit four served alongside it.
While the Vietnamese traditionally pass on dessert besides fruits. The French influence allowed for the showcase of a fish sauce chocolate bonbon made with single-origin Maison Marou chocolate. A dollop of black garlic nestled on the strawberry and lantern fruit with chilli salt rounds up the plate of sweet treats.
Closing Thoughts
The tasting menu, together with a glass of Chardonnay and a cocktail came up to around USD100.
Do note that if you do order alcohol, an additional service charge is appended to it on top of the usual service charge, this is for the additional efforts by the resident Bartender who will whip it up for you.
While the dishes do not disappoint, service, especially for dessert was slow, bringing down the overall enjoyment of the meal. Even so, I enjoyed the night, with the interpretation of street foods I’ve tried in the past few nights on the streets of Saigon.