Opening its doors in 2018, Magic Square had a solid one year run before going on hiatus. It has since reopened at a 15-seater standalone colonial building tucked away at 7 Portsdown Road in 2021.
Hailing as a pay-it-forward incubator providing young chefs the space to experiment and push themselves to showcase their individuality in an environment focusing on the dishes themselves.
Magic Square’s mod-Singapore cuisine offerings feature a blend of local produce and inspirations amalgamated with fine-dining presentations. The two hour dinner session is an experience, where you will be treated to innovative uses of familiar ingredients. Often polarising, you may find your dessert course hiding sambal chilli or the familiar keropok showing up together with a rich prawn broth. The hint of familiarity eases you into the meal.
The S$98++, 9-course menu and chef-in-charge changes monthly, with each chef challenged to a different theme and limitation(s) to push themselves. The restaurant has seen success with regulars showing up monthly to sample the different menus.
Two dining slots are available daily, at 6.15pm and 8.15pm. Each meal lasts 2 hours, and guests are to be seated 5 minutes prior to the start of the meal. Due to its remote location, I’ll advise heading there early.
Slots are available via an online ticketing system on their website, of which you have to purchase beforehand on a first-come-first-served basis. All purchases are non-refundable.
A strict affair when it comes to the dishes, no changes to the menu are allowed. Customers are warned off from purchasing a ticket if they do have any dietary restrictions. An adult-only, no-smoking environment with latecomers given no leeway in dishes served. Additional wine and sake pairings, alongside sparkling or still water are available and charged separately. No dress code is specified, but you can’t go wrong with smart casual for this occasion or dressing up to enjoy the whole experience.
The dishes themselves are central to the whole dining concept. An open kitchen and bar seats lets you witness your food prepared right before you. Service is prompt with each staff knowledgeable about the dishes and wine pairings. You will be able to hear about the inspiration, thoughts, and even provide your opinion about the dishes to the chef at the end of the meal.
The only music you’ll find is the clinical positioning of pans, trays, and plates as each course is served up. Conversations can be had freely, most probably about the dishes themselves.
There are two approaches to dining at Magic Square. The first is to embrace the unknown (barring checking the list of ingredients on their website for the allergy-prone). The other would be to go in knowing what to expect.
Chefs
Each chef has three different menus to plan over the course of a year.
- An open menu without any limitation.
- Utilise 2/3 fishes
- Each course to only use three ingredients total.
Pristina Mok
Former Sous Chef at Restaurant Zén. My one experience with her menu saw bold flavour combinations and strong flavours.
Menus
July 2022 – To incorporate 3 local fishes in a seafood menu. Review here.
Jonathan Gan
Former Junior Sous Chef at Odette.
Menus
August 2022 – A pescetarian menu focusing on fruits and vegetables. Each dish is allowed a maximum of three ingredients. Review here.
Marcus Leow
Menus
September 2022 – Peranakan influence with Japanese seasonal ingredients.
Keefe Chew
Menus
December 2022 – An elevated Chinese menu that his mother would love to have.