When I first stepped into the neighbourhood bar in Asakusa, Tokyo, right across my hostel. I found myself in the company of a boisterous teen and an office lady with the Japanese bartender (master) taking orders—four strangers with nothing in common. As the night went on, conversations were facilitated with Google Translate open on my phone set on the table and us leaning over speaking into it in turns between rounds of Umeshu highballs and grilled skewers. Till now, I remember the warmth that transcended cultural and language barriers.
When I stepped into Kizuna, I believed I had found a similar vibe. The local spot, found across the Potong Pasir HDB Estate, brings together regulars who lived their childhood in the neighbourhood and visitors from abroad who found a spot to hang out after work. Here, long-time residents will find the folks behind the counter a familiar face. Power couple Sam Wong and Shen Tan are third-generation venue owners, albeit after revamping the concept from the bakery “Shangri-La Confectionary and Delicatessen” to that of a cafe bar.
While Sam stays behind the counter serving up drinks, Shen can be seen moving from table to table greeting guests and long-time friends, equal parts catching up and taking orders. Tasty bites from the ever-changing Japanese menu by Chef Angus Chow come out regularly from a cosy kitchen utilising “more home-style” appliances and ingredients. Customers are requested to order at least a single drink for the night, and weekdays feature a set menu, allowing you to get small appetizers to go with your drink at a discounted rate.
While usually behind the counter, Chef Angus pops out to talk to guests, checking in on how they found their food and happy to entertain any question on how each dish was prepared.
Regulars can be found sharing a drink, with his beverage being a can of Guinness (or Heinenken) Beer chilled in a measuring cup filled with ice.
The Chinese New Year season has him preparing Char Siu Bowls as a seasonal item. With a little downtime, he was glad to come out and took turns with a customer to photograph one of the portions served up.
At night, standing proudly by the counter as a centrepiece is a four-litre plastic whiskey jug with a pump attachment, sending out amber goodness in the form of highballs and shots as the night progresses. A social lubricant as strangers pulled chairs together, clinking cups and sharing how they found out about this drinking spot.
This was certainly different from scenes set by the Izakayas I have frequented in town where come night, seats are filled up with office workers in starched shirts hitting back mugs of beer. While the night’s nourishment remains a constant, the attire is anything but. Expect t-shirts and shorts, and even an admin Tee or two.
Saturdays transform the drinking spot with Bartender Jonathan Tan stepping behind the counter. The vibe remains the same. Throughout the night tables ordered up a slew of cocktails, from classics such as the Sazerac which even featured an absinthe wash, to Jon’s specials for the night, a Bak Kwa Manhatten where he will proudly showcase the pork jerky used to infuse the calvados for the drink.
His signature and favourite drink is the Ramos Gin Fizz, specifically a Bandung rose syrup variant. A Ramos Gin Fizz involves a ton of shaking and gives you a nice creamy top that rises majestically over the top as it is poured into your glass. It is also known as a pain to make. His record stands at 30 made in a single night so far, letting him skip arms day for the following week.
Befitting an izakaya, the food menu features Japanese ingredients and cooking methods with Mentaiko-laden dishes present or a beef tongue stew. Interweave between the Japanese pub classics are some of Chef Angus’ own takes such as grilled cauliflower bites topped with Ikura and Mentaiko. Off-menu items pop up regularly as Chow finds a particularly fresh ingredient in the market or has something strike his fancy.
The fried dishes here lack the greasy, guttural feel from a lack of an actual deep fryer. The Karaage, fresh from the air fryer was steaming hot and a delight, but lacked the punch from the abundance of oil for an artery-clogging mess. The liberal use of a blow torch and grill worked wonders for many other dishes. The char on the cauliflower could be smelled from afar as the dish was lit ablaze in a savoury snack that went astonishingly well with the highball on hand.
If you find yourself in the neighbourhood and have no other plans for the night, pull up a seat and get ready to go for a round or five with the team.