Expect a line snaking around the corner at the Cowan Street restaurant at dinnertime as whole birds are expertly carved up and platted, served alongside blanched beansprouts and bowls of kway teow (flat rice noodles). While the orders are taken fast and food is served up quick, having your bills settled can take a bit longer, so take your time to finish your drink, enjoy the ambience, and the food coma from a great meal.
As we stepped inside, we found the place packed with locals with a comfortable din. Orders are called out, conversations overheard in Cantonese and Chinese, and once in a while, a rhythmic thump as another chicken is placed on the chopping board and disassembled. Assorted drinks are brought around on a platter where you can pick one from it or place an order separately.
Similar to the Singaporean Hainanese chicken rice, the chicken is poached and takes a quick plunge into an ice bath. This stops the cooking process, resulting in a tender, juicy bite each time. Pooled around the chicken is a combination of soy sauce, sesame oil, and chicken fat. A rich mixture that does not overpower the taste of the chicken itself.
To our surprise, Restoran Cowan Street Ayam does not serve rice at all. Instead, thin, flat rice noodles are served in a watery chicken soup that quickly becomes flavoured with soya sauce from the chicken. Lighter on the stomach, one can easily go through a few bowls of silky-smooth noodles before being sated.
You definitely cannot skip out on trying the Tauge (beansprouts) in Ipoh. It is said that the water from the limestone nearby makes it extra special. The beansprouts themselves are shorter and plump compared to the ones seen elsewhere. A dusting of pepper and a soya sauce completes the dish.
What we took to be a pot of soup at the entrance turned out to be chicken feet. A must-try for fans of the gelatinous texture. Milder in flavour compared to the dim sum version, the slow cooking process has the meat almost falling off the bones.
A mixture of innards is also available for you to order, consisting of chicken gizzard, intestine, and liver. Without any of the gamey taste, each with its wildly different texture.