Sake is commonly known as Japanese rice wine, so it should be no one’s surprise that the type of rice used and how it is processed makes a key difference in the final drink. Of course, the rice used in Sake production commonly differs greatly from the table rice at the dining table.
One key difference is the presence of a Shimpaku “心白”. This phenomenon occurs when the rice’s central part appears cloudy from a high concentration of starch. That allows for the outer portions to be polished away leaving brewers with a source of almost pure starch that is then converted into fermentable sugars.
Most sakes are produced using one of the top five varieties of sake rice, or a combination of them. The top two: Yamada-nishiki and Gohyakuman-goku accounted for 60% of all sake rice production in 2015. These sake rice varieties are prized for their low protein content, impart a rich flavour to sakes and can be polished to a low ratio with the Shimpaku intact.
I was fortunate enough to participate in a tasting session that was part appreciation, and part learning.
Rice varieties tried (from left to right)
1. Toyonishiki
2. Hyogo Yumenishiki
3. Yume Ikkon
4. Nakate Shin Senbon
5. Torihime
6. Murasaki no Mai (purple rice) + Tamasakae
“Junmai Sake No. 6” (third sake from the left) hailing from the Asahikiku brewery uses Yume Ikkon, a table rice from Fukuoka. This hardier table rice with large grain size is similar to sake rice in having a lower protein amount. This aspect grants the sake a straightforward, light taste, lending it versatility in serving temperatures, enabling one to serve it both chilled or warmed.
The “Benten Musume” (second from the right) from Ota Sake Brewery lies on the other end of the spectrum in taste. With a slight yellow tinge and a distinct umami aroma reminiscent of mushrooms, balanced with acidity, it is not a sake for everyone. Highly recommended to have it served warmed, here, the sake was served at 50°C and 60°C, the upper edge of warmed sake. Lifting the cup exposed me to the pronounced aroma, a precursor to its rich taste. The sake lingers slightly and pairs well with a piece of heavily salted, spiced jerky.
Emphasis is placed on the rice, “Torihime”, which the brewery sources from contract farmers in the vicinity. The bottle even has a section about the farmer who grew the rice.
Standing out from the rest of the lineup with a pinkish hue was the Suwaizumi Yakami made from Murasaki no Mai (purple rice). The ancient rice, originating from Indonesia, can be found in Southeast Asia dishes such as Pulut Hitam, where the glutinous purple (or black) rice is cooked into a jam-like consistency and mixed with coconut milk.
Here, the sake can be likened to a dessert wine, ending the night’s tasting session on a sweet note. Served chilled, a floral and oak taste can be found while side-stepping a saccharine note.
When deciding on a sake, consideration of rice types is usually not a factor as polishing ratio or brewing methods tend to be more indicative of the sake profile. However, an in-depth look into individual elements of sake is certainly worth an interesting experience.